Crown Noblesville Concrete and MasonryCrown Noblesville Concrete and Masonry

Chimney repair in Noblesville IN - a dry chimney with the leak fixed first

Stains by the fireplace or mortar falling out of the brick? We find where water gets in, stop it, then rebuild the joints.

A dark stone masonry fire feature with a narrow blue glass burner sits beside a calm pond.

I come out and write the estimate

I'm the one who comes out, looks your chimney over and writes the estimate. Our own crew of masons does the repair, and I'm on the job with them, so the person who found the problem is there when it gets fixed.

In business since 2013

I learned this trade working under an older mason and started this business in 2013. Thirteen years in, I still ask why a chimney failed before I say what to do about it, and I'll tell you when a repair can wait.

Fully licensed and insured

Chimney work puts our crew and ladders on your roof, so it's fair to ask any mason about coverage before they start. Call (317) 214-8382 or send us photos through our form to set up a visit.

Chimney repair in Noblesville, done in order

Chimney repair in Noblesville, IN means fixing the mortar, brick and seals that keep rain out of your chimney and your house. It's for homeowners with a stain near the fireplace, damp in the attic or mortar crumbling from the joints, which usually means water's been getting in.

Brick usually outlasts the mortar around it, so the joints are where a chimney gives first. When they wear out, we repoint them, cutting out the worn mortar and packing fresh mortar in its place. The bigger decision is how much to do now. Sometimes a few joints near the top are all that need it this year, and when that's the case I'll say so rather than sell you the whole chimney.

Price moves with how much needs work and how steep the roof is. A few loose joints up top is a smaller job than a new seal at the roof line, a cracked crown on top or brick that has to come down and be relaid. The schedule turns on the weather and on any permit step the city calls for. Your estimate puts the cause I find and the work in writing.

Chimney repair from the roof seam to the cap

Finding where the water gets in

Before we touch the mortar, I look for where the water is getting in, from the seam at the roof to the cap on top. The crown, the concrete top around the flue, gets missed a lot, and water that gets past it can end up between the brick and the flue liner. We fix the source first, so your new joints aren't fighting the same leak. That's the step a quick patch skips, and it's why patched joints so often wash out again.

New joints and replacement brick

Once the leak is handled, we repoint the worn joints, the same work we do as tuckpointing on walls and foundations, and finish them to match the old ones so the chimney doesn't look patched. Brick that's cracked or flaking comes out and new brick goes in, just like our brick repair anywhere else on a house. The top of the chimney usually takes the worst of the weather, so sometimes that section has to come down and be relaid while the rest only needs its joints done.

Sealing the seam at the roof

The seam where your roof meets the chimney needs proper flashing, a base piece along the roof and a counter piece set into the brick that laps over it, to keep water out of your house. A repair that fixes the brick and skips that seam leaves the door open for the next leak. When I'm up there, I check whether the flashing is loose, rusted or just smeared with caulk, and if it needs replacing we do it as part of the job, so the joints we just finished stay dry.

Get a written chimney repair estimate

Send photos of any loose mortar and tell us where water shows inside. Most of the time I'm the one who calls back within one business day, and then I come out for a free on-site estimate with no obligation.

(317) 214-8382

What happens after you call us

  1. I look it over in person

    You call or send photos, and I come out to look the chimney over and work out what's behind the damage. Your written estimate says what I think is causing it, what we'd do and what can wait.

  2. Permits and a start date

    When you're ready, I check with the city, and if a permit's needed we take care of the application. The city reviews and approves permit documents before any work starts, so the start date waits on that and the weather.

  3. The repair and a final walk

    We watch the forecast closely in fall, since the first frost normally comes around October 18 at Anderson and October 26 at the Indianapolis airport. When the repair's done, I walk the finished work with you before we pack up.

Chimney repair questions from Noblesville

How much does chimney repair cost around Indianapolis?

Chimney repair in the Indianapolis area usually costs about $500 to $6,000 per project, from minor repointing up to a complete rebuild. That's the going rate around here, not our price, and where yours lands depends on how much of the chimney needs work. Your estimate puts the work your chimney needs in writing.

Do I need a permit for chimney repair in Noblesville?

Noblesville's permit list doesn't name chimney repair, so it's worth checking for your job rather than assuming. The city issues permits for electrical, plumbing, mechanical, HVAC and structural alterations, and its Department of Planning and Development answers permit questions at 317-776-6325. Applications go through the city's online permit portal.

Which mortar is best for repointing my chimney?

One picked for your chimney's brick and exposure, so ask any mason how they chose it. Federal preservation guidance notes that straight portland cement mortar is extremely hard, shrinks and moves a lot with heat and cold, while lime mortar is soft and moves little, and it says lime may be considered for many jobs beyond historic buildings.

Why did white powder show up after my chimney was repointed?

That white haze is efflorescence, and it occasionally shows up in the first few months after repointing. Federal preservation guidance says it usually weathers away on its own, so it's fine to give it time. If it stays, the guidance says to dry brush it with a stiff natural or nylon brush, then wet brush, and not to use muriatic acid.